Well, after arriving in San Pedro de Atacama with it's relaxed feel and quaint little mud streets I decided to have a few days off the bike and soak up the relaxed atmosphere. I've been camping in a great spot surrounded by an amazing desert garden which is full of other interesting travellers. The other night I was having a beer in the Plaza when a couple of English girls turn up and invited me to join them. I'd just got into town and was so tired I arranged to meet them the next night for a few beers. The night was fantastic if not a little strange. Starting off with a few beers then moving swiftly to Pisco and cola (Pisco is a strong local liquor) the night was just warming up. Throw in a couple of others plus the girl's South American tour guide after the bars closed we carried on back at his place. It was a long fun night and I crawled back into my tent just before the sun came up. The next day was spent relaxing and recovering in the sun!
I also meet a German couple also cycling around South America and have been chatting bike stuff with them for the last couple of days. They aren't going my way which is a bit of a shame but I'll surely meet some more cyclists along the way. I head out cycling again tomorrow which I'm looking forward to. Heading north again on the Chilean side of the Chile/Bolivian border for about 5 days before crossing at Ollague into Bolivia.......all going to plan!! Hills and altitude the are order of the next week so challegnes a plenty.
Well, I hope the blog is being useful for you all and that someone is reading it!!??? Anyways, below are a few funny things which will hopefully make you laugh.
As you know I don't eat cheese - well everything has cheese in it over here so needless to say I've eaten my fair share of the stuff!! One example was the other week I was cycling through the desert and was getting very hungry when I came upon a store selling Empanadas which are a lovely local dish. I ordered a couple but as I found out they only came in one favour......full of cheese!! I was so hungry I downed those and went back for more!!
Again I don't really eat chocolate or ice cream but after one long hot day without food for a few hours I completely hit the wall and was getting dizzy and faint. I found a mini market and downed a couple of chocolate bars and an ice cream followed by a coke and some lollies. It fixed me up a treat and I managed to crawl the next 35km to the next town for a decent meal. Since then I have an emergency chocolate fix stuffed into one of my panniers just in case!!
My Spanish is terrible and doesn't really seem to be getting better so I get laughed at a lot by the locals. After ordering food it is always an apprehensive wait to see what comes out is what I think I've ordered!! Hopefully I'll start progressing with the Spanish soon.
Well, that's about it but everyone in Chile has been extremely kind and friendly. I've been given food, water, places to stay and directions from a whole host of locals trying to help me out. One thing the Chileans can't seem to get right is distances as when I stop to ask how far the next town or truck stop is I get a range of responses!! In a car it doesn't really matter too much but when on the bike in the heat it can make a huge difference. So when a reply comes back with 'oh, it's only 10kms up the road and it's all down hill' I've learnt the hard way to interpret that as 20-30kms away and straight up hill!!
Take care and please keep writing me comments and emails as they are always appreciated.
Thursday, January 31, 2008
Tuesday, January 29, 2008
Antofagasta to San Pedro de Atacama
Heading out of Antofagasta was always going to be hard after a couple of days off the bike but I managed it. Straight into a hard climb but it easied off during the day. Slowly climbing for the rest of the day until I got to a little place called Sierra Gorda where I stopped for the night. Back into it early the next morning as I wanted to beat the worst of the sun as I knew it was another day of slow climbing to get to Calama. Once there I had a relaxing afternoon checking the place out and reading in the central plaza. I wanted an early night as I knew the ride to San Pedro de Atacama was going to be hard work but as typically with the Chileans they don't start drinking until about 1am and don't stop until dawn. They love having the TV or music banging away in the background so sleeping is impossible. Come 7am I'd had enough and it was getting light so I packed up and cycled out of there. After a night with no sleep I wasn´t really in the mood for 9-10 hours in the desert on my bike but luckily the scenery was fantastic. I had the amazing desert landscape all around me and with the Andes and numerous snow capped volcanoes in the background. The riding was hard as I climbed to my highest yet of 3350m before descending into San Pedro de Atacama. San Pedro is a touristy but relaxing little adobe village stuck in the middle of nowhere with all these natural wonders surrounding the town. There are geysers, hot pools, salt lakes and amazing rock formations all around so the next few days are going to be spend being a touirst and doing some of the sights. Finally I've meet some other travellers and even some other cycle tourists so it's been great chatting and hanging out with people I can actually talk with!!
The route map is updated now so check it out as I'm still deciding which way to take into Bolivia. I've been told one option is flooded out and would be madness by bike so maybe my decision has been made for me!! We'll see eh.
Riding Stats
> 25th Jan - 152km
> 26th Jan - 72km
> 27th Jan - 107km
The route map is updated now so check it out as I'm still deciding which way to take into Bolivia. I've been told one option is flooded out and would be madness by bike so maybe my decision has been made for me!! We'll see eh.
Riding Stats
> 25th Jan - 152km
> 26th Jan - 72km
> 27th Jan - 107km
Thursday, January 24, 2008
Copiapo to Antofagasta
It started off with an easy ride from Copiapo to Bahia Inglesa which was great as I met another cycle tourist coming in the opposite direction. We stopped and chatted for a while before heading in our own directions. He gave me some good advice on the conditions further north and I did the same for him to the south. Bahia Inglesa was a lovely place with a couple of fantastic beaches. Sunbathing, swimming and a few beers were the order of the day. The next day I woke up with a cold and feeling not that great so it was very short ride into the next town which was a bit cheaper as well. Caldera didn´t have a lot to offer but I needed to rest as I wasn´t feeling brilliant plus they have a lively port scene which was great hanging out and watching all the locals doing their thing.
I felt a lot better riding out of Caldera early the next morning and I had a great day of coastal riding. I was heading for the National Park of Pan de Azucar which was definitely worth the ride. The scenery and beaches in the national park were stunning and I had a fantastic campsite right next to the beach. The peaceful night watching the sun setting was soon disrupted with an all night rave!! It just seemed like totally the wrong setting for a rave plus there was no one around so it was just a bunch of 5-6 local tweakers! As I packed up the next morning I rode out through the rave to cheering and chapping from the partygoers to another days cycling.......crazy eh. This day ended up being a hard one through a lonely part of the desert but I was helped out with some food and water from a local driver. Lucky as the next truck stop (the first I´d seen all day) was still another two hours away. I then had 30kms of straight downhill to Taltal. A port/beach town on the coast but with all the hostels full I ended up again camping on the beach for free. Stocking up on food and water I headed out a bit later than I would have liked but I only had the intention of riding up the coast and spending the night at another beach town. The beach town was a dive so I decided to carry on but the problem was the way out of town was up a very steep dirt and gravel road. That afternoon I only managed to cycle 18kms in 4 hours. It was hard going and I was totally drained at the end of it. Now in the middle of nowhere I started to look for a campsite out of site of the road. I found a spot and had a great night under the stars in the desert. With some water and a little food the next day started out great with lovely calm conditions but a couple of hours into it a strong head wind developed. Then the pavement which I woke up to run out and I was back to the dirt and gravel roads again with some large hills thrown in for good measure. I had to walk/push the bike for some sections as I couldn´t even ride through it. The day was a killer but after pushing my bike half way up one final hill (2140m, highest yet!!!!) it was all downhill for about 70kms. Thank god as I had zero energy left in me. Another couple of stops and some more kind people providing me with food and water, as there is nothing out in the desert I made it to Antofagasta.
The riding has been challenging to say the least but it also has been a lot of fun. Not much exciting news happening but these were always going to be long lonely kms of riding and more riding. My legs are totally stuffed now so I´ve got a couple of rest days in Antofagasta before heading west over the Andes into Bolivia. I´ll go via San Pedro de Atacama which has geysers and hot pools etc so hopefully some more exciting news coming other than riding!!
Riding Stats
> 17th Jan - 86km
> 18th Jan - 6km
> 19th Jan - 123km
> 20th Jan - 131km
> 21st Jan - 80km
> 22nd Jan - 160km
Total to date - 1456km
I felt a lot better riding out of Caldera early the next morning and I had a great day of coastal riding. I was heading for the National Park of Pan de Azucar which was definitely worth the ride. The scenery and beaches in the national park were stunning and I had a fantastic campsite right next to the beach. The peaceful night watching the sun setting was soon disrupted with an all night rave!! It just seemed like totally the wrong setting for a rave plus there was no one around so it was just a bunch of 5-6 local tweakers! As I packed up the next morning I rode out through the rave to cheering and chapping from the partygoers to another days cycling.......crazy eh. This day ended up being a hard one through a lonely part of the desert but I was helped out with some food and water from a local driver. Lucky as the next truck stop (the first I´d seen all day) was still another two hours away. I then had 30kms of straight downhill to Taltal. A port/beach town on the coast but with all the hostels full I ended up again camping on the beach for free. Stocking up on food and water I headed out a bit later than I would have liked but I only had the intention of riding up the coast and spending the night at another beach town. The beach town was a dive so I decided to carry on but the problem was the way out of town was up a very steep dirt and gravel road. That afternoon I only managed to cycle 18kms in 4 hours. It was hard going and I was totally drained at the end of it. Now in the middle of nowhere I started to look for a campsite out of site of the road. I found a spot and had a great night under the stars in the desert. With some water and a little food the next day started out great with lovely calm conditions but a couple of hours into it a strong head wind developed. Then the pavement which I woke up to run out and I was back to the dirt and gravel roads again with some large hills thrown in for good measure. I had to walk/push the bike for some sections as I couldn´t even ride through it. The day was a killer but after pushing my bike half way up one final hill (2140m, highest yet!!!!) it was all downhill for about 70kms. Thank god as I had zero energy left in me. Another couple of stops and some more kind people providing me with food and water, as there is nothing out in the desert I made it to Antofagasta.
The riding has been challenging to say the least but it also has been a lot of fun. Not much exciting news happening but these were always going to be long lonely kms of riding and more riding. My legs are totally stuffed now so I´ve got a couple of rest days in Antofagasta before heading west over the Andes into Bolivia. I´ll go via San Pedro de Atacama which has geysers and hot pools etc so hopefully some more exciting news coming other than riding!!
Riding Stats
> 17th Jan - 86km
> 18th Jan - 6km
> 19th Jan - 123km
> 20th Jan - 131km
> 21st Jan - 80km
> 22nd Jan - 160km
Total to date - 1456km
Thursday, January 17, 2008
La Serena to Copiapo
The last three days have been spent on the bike doing the hard yards. The desert heat and hills certainly take their toll on the body and mind! Currently I´m in a city called Copiapo which is in the heart of mining country. There seems to be random mining for all sorts of minerals scattered all over the landscape up here but I believe it is a huge boost for Chile´s economy. Anyways, after a long day in the saddle out from La Serena I finally found a drain under the road to camp in. It sounds bad but to me getting some shade and food it looked like heaven! I was there out of sight from the road and anyone else for safety reasons for maybe two hours before I had a couple of random visitors! This was enough to scare me into packing up and back on the road to the next town, thankfully only a few kms up the road. Once there an old guy who had the keys to the church let me spend the night in there. So much for my first night under the stars camping wild!!! The next two days were much of the same, lots of riding in the sun and trying to find shade and food/water as often as possible. Whenever I come across a Posada (Truck stop) I usually stopped for some food or at least fill my water bottles. The truckies and locals all steer at me and my bike in amazement. Trying to talk with them is aways great fun as they don´t speak English and my Spanish is terrible so there´s a lot of sign language and laughing. The people in Chile are very friendly and always helpful which makes a huge difference when travelling. Yesterday while cycling along a guy on a touring motorcycle coming in the opposite direction toots and waves. I´m doing the same but think nothing of it as this happens about every km or so with random motorists. Then about two minutes later he pulls in beside me for a chat and some photos. This was awesome and made my day as it was good talking with someone who is also travelling through South America. A funny Brazilian guy who also thought I was a bit crazy!! Well, that´s most of the news. Emails and blog comments are always appreciated so keep them coming! Take care
Riding Stats
Jan 13th - 101km
Jan 14th - 97km
Jan 15th - 152km
Riding Stats
Jan 13th - 101km
Jan 14th - 97km
Jan 15th - 152km
Saturday, January 12, 2008
Santiago to La Serena
Well, I made it to my first major town, La Serena in one piece! The last few days have been interesting and hard but also lots of fun. Trying to cycle out of Santiago on a Monday morning had its share of challenges but I finally got out and onto the main highway which runs all the way through the Americas (Alaska to the bottom of Argentina), the Pan Americana Highway. Once on there I was away and it felt really amazing to finally be on the road after so much time thinking about and planning this trip. I must admit I had a tear in my eye as I got underway. After a long day in the saddle I found a great campsite with a pool and relaxed for the night. Up early the next morning it started as the last finished by being chased my dogs! These are angry dogs, I mean really angry and fast dogs that really hate me on the bike. Off the bike they barely seem to care if you are there or not. Later in the day I was relaxing at the side of the road eating a snack when a local pulled up and offered me lunch at his place with his friends which was awesome. They were laughing a lot at me but we all had fun. No one really seems to speak any English so this has its moments, both good and bad. I´m learning hard but everyone has a different accent or word for the same thing. That night I spend at the beach at a place called Punta Molles, seafood and cervezas were on the menu too.
Day three was a long one riding over ever rolling hills which really started to hit me in the legs and mentally as it was one hill after another all day. In the middle of nowhere and with nowhere to camp I was getting a little worried as I was running out of energy fast. Then around the next corner was a site to behold ( check the photo), one house in the middle of nowhere. I approached and asked to stay the night and for some food. After a bit of consideration, moving of family members out of rooms and a quick clean I had a room and some great food for dinner. Up again early on day four this was going to be a very long hard day. More killer rolling hills and no breakfast until about midday. After lunch I was feeling good so I decided to go all the way to La Serena. Not a bad idea but it was 35-40 degrees and unbeknown to me I just passed the last shop for the next 5 hours!! After nearly passing out I finally found some food but still had 40km to go. They were hard fought km´s I can tell you. Anyways, I made it and will now spend the next couple of days here relaxing and sightseeing. I hope the above gives you a feel for my daily grind in the saddle.......from now on I´ll concentrate more on the highlights/lowlights than a running commentary.
Summary of riding
>Day 1 - 95km
>Day 2 - 112km
>Day 3 - 119km
>Day 4 - 184km
Day three was a long one riding over ever rolling hills which really started to hit me in the legs and mentally as it was one hill after another all day. In the middle of nowhere and with nowhere to camp I was getting a little worried as I was running out of energy fast. Then around the next corner was a site to behold ( check the photo), one house in the middle of nowhere. I approached and asked to stay the night and for some food. After a bit of consideration, moving of family members out of rooms and a quick clean I had a room and some great food for dinner. Up again early on day four this was going to be a very long hard day. More killer rolling hills and no breakfast until about midday. After lunch I was feeling good so I decided to go all the way to La Serena. Not a bad idea but it was 35-40 degrees and unbeknown to me I just passed the last shop for the next 5 hours!! After nearly passing out I finally found some food but still had 40km to go. They were hard fought km´s I can tell you. Anyways, I made it and will now spend the next couple of days here relaxing and sightseeing. I hope the above gives you a feel for my daily grind in the saddle.......from now on I´ll concentrate more on the highlights/lowlights than a running commentary.
Summary of riding
>Day 1 - 95km
>Day 2 - 112km
>Day 3 - 119km
>Day 4 - 184km
Monday, January 7, 2008
Santiago, Chile
Well I've spend the last couple of days hanging out in Santiago which has been great. A really friendly city with pretty of atmosphere. The weather is great but extremely hot. Way hotter than I expected so I think the riding is going to be even harder......great eh like I need it to be even more challenging!!!!
Last night I went out for a couple of beers and something to eat which was fun as I meet up with a few other backpackers. Had a couple of mas grande cerveras in an area called Bellavista which has a lot of bars and restaurants and then came back to the hostel for a couple more!
I also managed to put the bike back together yesterday after the flight over and it seemed to survive ok. I've checked and re-check all of the nuts and bolts to make sure everything is fixed on correctly and I've packed my packs yet again all ready to head north tomorrow. I've be getting up early before the real heat of the day kicks in and ride out of Santiago. Looking forward to finally getting on the bike so I hope it all comes together tomorrow with no major problems. Getting out of Santiago will be interesting as it is a pretty large busy city! I'll let you know how the riding goes after tomorrow!!!
Check out the new photos I've posted.........just follow the link on the blog home page.
Last night I went out for a couple of beers and something to eat which was fun as I meet up with a few other backpackers. Had a couple of mas grande cerveras in an area called Bellavista which has a lot of bars and restaurants and then came back to the hostel for a couple more!
I also managed to put the bike back together yesterday after the flight over and it seemed to survive ok. I've checked and re-check all of the nuts and bolts to make sure everything is fixed on correctly and I've packed my packs yet again all ready to head north tomorrow. I've be getting up early before the real heat of the day kicks in and ride out of Santiago. Looking forward to finally getting on the bike so I hope it all comes together tomorrow with no major problems. Getting out of Santiago will be interesting as it is a pretty large busy city! I'll let you know how the riding goes after tomorrow!!!
Check out the new photos I've posted.........just follow the link on the blog home page.
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